The whole concept of exposure is based on one thing: light.  Essentially, when you use a camera you are capturing light – capture too much light and you overexpose your image, capture too little and you underexpose.  Sound pretty logical so far?  Great.  Most cameras, except for basic point-and-shoots, will allow you to manually control your exposure, and therefore control the light being captured.

Exposing a photograph depends on three, in-camera variables: Aperture, Shutter Speed, and ISO.  That’s it.  If you fully understand each of these variables, and how they interplay, you will be able to approach almost every shooting situation confidently. So let’s have a closer look:

1) Aperture.  A camera’s aperture is located in the lens.  Think of it as a flexible gateway that can be opened or closed by the photographer to control the amount of light entering the camera.  Aperture size is generally expressed as an f-number (i.e. f2.8).  Historically, the f-number was calculated by dividing the focal length of a lens by the diameter of the aperture.  For instance, if you had a 50mm lens and your aperture measured 25mm in diameter, your f-number would be f2.0 (50 ÷ 25 = 2).  As cameras and lenses evolved, this equation became slightly more complex, but the same general rules apply.  In short, the lower the f-number, the more light you are letting through the lens.  Here’s a basic overview of how aperture works:

2) Shutter Speed: Once the light has passed through the aperture it enters the main camera body.  Before the light is exposed, the mirror must flip up (in DSLR cameras only), and a shutter curtain must open for a precise amount of time.  The shutter may remain open anywhere from a fraction of a second to several minutes (or even hours) depending on the type of shot the photographer intends to capture.  Shutter speeds are usually displayed as fractions (i.e. 1/250 second, 1/1000 second, 1/15 second etc.) or as whole numbers (i.e. 3 seconds, 30 seconds etc.).  Here’s a brief diagram for how shutter speed works:

3) ISO: Finally, the light is able to hit the sensor so the prescribed exposure can take place.  Even here though, the photographer can control exposure by controlling the ISO.  ISO is an abbreviated term used in photography to describe how sensitive a roll of film or digital sensor is to light.  ISO increments commonly range between 100 and 3200 but can go higher and lower in some cameras.  The lower the ISO is set, the less sensitive your camera will be to light, and vise versa.  Here’s a basic overview:

A properly exposed photograph relies entirely on a perfect balance between these three variables.  Different shooting scenarios each require a different combination of Aperture, Shutter Speed, and ISO.  You can tell when you are set up properly when your light meter states that you are at 0.0 (the perfect exposure).  That being said, certain settings can have great advantages, or debilitating disadvantages to the final look of your photo.  Next time, I’ll run through some sample real estate scenarios and discuss the best ways to expose them, as well as some things to avoid whenever possible.

Darn.  That post ended up being just as nerdy as the last few.  Maybe next time…

As a photographer, I recommend that all real estate agents shoot with an SLR, or a single lens reflex camera. That is one with detachable lenses, often a more robust camera body, and more refined controls. With an SLR camera and a little know-how, you can approach all shooting situations confidently, and routinely post quality, attractive listing photos online, and in print format. In reality though, I understand that not everyone wants to lug around a large camera, or learn specifically how to use it, so I’ve simply listed some feature recommendations for all the three main camera sizes.

Option (a): The Ultra-Compact, Point-and-Shoot Camera

Feature Recommendations:

Wide Angle Lens (38mm or wider) – Ultra compact and compact cameras almost never have lenses wider than 38mm. Get the widest you can, so that you can fit most of those large rooms into one shot.

White Balance Override – You will be shooting under a variety of lighting conditions, and it never hurts to have control.

Built in Flash – With at least the ability to shoot 9.8 ft. (3 meters) for brightening those dimly lit rooms.

Low Noise – Noise appears as impure, pixilated colors and a lack of detail. It results from shooting at high ISO, and/or in poorly lit conditions.

Easy to Navigate Menu – Find a camera with a menu system that makes sense to you. Make sure you can find what you’re looking for quickly and efficiently.

Option (b): The Mid-Size Camera

Feature Recommendations:

Wide Angle Lens (28mm to 35mm) – More options exist in mid-size cameras to achieve wider angles. Also, many of these cameras have a removable adapter ring around the lens that can accommodate “wide-angle adapters” if you fancy something wider.

Built-in Flash – With the ability to shoot 13.1 ft. (4 meters). Better yet, seek out a camera that has a “hot-shoe” to accommodate an external flash.

Aperture Range Starting at f2.8 to f3.5 – Aperture refers to the amount of light that can pass through the lens. The lower the number the more light that can pass. As photography is all about light, go for as low a number as possible.

Low Noise – see above

Lithium-ion Battery – Opt for one with plenty of “shots per recharge” so you can avoid running low on power when shooting. Carry a second battery if you want to avoid setbacks.

Option (c): The SLR (Single Lens Reflex) Camera

Feature Recommendations:

Wide Angle Lens (18mm) – Most SLR cameras come as a kit with an 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 lens, or similar. Check to see if these kits can be broken up and preview higher quality lenses. The advantages are better construction, faster focusing, wider aperture, and higher quality glass. Also, I recommend getting a UV filter to protect the lens from dust, scratches, and impact. A polarizing filter will be beneficial for shooting exteriors.

External Flash – The best accessory for a SLR camera is a good external flash. Don’t worry if you’re not too tech-savvy, as modern flashes have a TTL (Through the Lens) mode which automatically sets the flash in sync with your camera.

Dust Reduction – Dust and debris will inevitably get inside your camera body when changing lenses. Many SLR cameras now have sensor coatings and vibration mechanisms to alleviate this problem.

Auto Focus Points – Aim for at least five focusing points.

ISO 200-1600 – An ideal range for all your real estate photo needs.