If you choose to shoot in the direction of an uncovered window, which is often unavoidable, you’ll have to concede to the brightness of the sun.  You can minimize the intensity of light by shooting at a different time of day (dusk/dawn), during overcast, or by blocking the window with curtains, but it’s not always easy to reschedule shoots, and some windows are best left wide open.  If you find yourself shooting in this kind of scenario, there are a few gear options to choose from (and each will vary from person to person):

Option #1 – Full Control
A full setup involves three or four strobes (flashes), a DSLR camera body, wide angle lens, some Pocket Wizards, light stands, reflectors/umbrellas, a metering device, gels, and a tripod.  The advantage here is that you can really control where you add light, the amount of light, and the softness of the light.  Furthermore, Pocket Wizards will allow you to set up wireless so you can position lighting where you want with minimal clutter.  Proper light metering and color correction will allow for all-around consistency in exposure which provides maximum detail with minimal noise.

The downside to having full control is that the gear is pricey – I’d estimate about $4,500 minimum for everything, unless you were able to find some used items or opt for lower quality gear.  The other thing is that all of the gear can be a bit cumbersome to lug around.  A decent-size lighting bag and another camera/lens bag should be expected.  Batteries, memory cards, clamps, filters, adapters, editing software and other random gadgets/gizmos can add up too.

Option #2 – Basic Control
A basic setup involves two or three strobes, a DSLR camera body, wide angle lens, light stands, and a tripod.  Gels are optional, but you might have to do a slight color correction afterwards if you choose not to use them.  Instead of reflectors, light can be bounced off of ceilings, walls, or even sheets of paper.  Pocket Wizards are best, but new flashes have built-in, infrared communication, so for simple setups that works fine.  You may choose to pick up a commander unit if you want to avoid using on-camera flash.  Also, a little trial and error will allow you to eliminate the light meter if you have to.  It’s important to note that the quality of the photo will suffer after cutting out equipment, but sometimes it’s better to learn using the essentials, then add equipment as required.

The basic setup still allows us to get a nice wide view of the room, and target our light at dim areas in an attempt to balance the intensity of interior and exterior light.  You might have a hard time getting perfectly balanced light in all areas of the room, but it will still be far better than using no lighting at all.

Option #3 – HDR (High Dynamic Range) Processing
HDR for interior listing photos requires a camera with a wide-angle lens (not necessarily a DSLR), editing software, and a sturdy tripod.  It is by far the least expensive of the options, but not always the easiest.  HDR images require practice, and may suffer from noise, color inaccuracy, and/or tone issues.

There are some HDR real estate photos out there that are stunning, and others that look like quaint little homes from M83.  I highly suggest tackling HDR photography only if you have a good eye for realistic color and tone.

Next, we’ll discuss setup and some issues to watch for while shooting.

HDR, or high dynamic range photography is not unlike the process of stacking negatives.  Essentially, the goal is one of the same: combine a number of bracketed exposures in an effort to create one final image that embodies perfect tonal range.  HDR is not limited to astrophotography by any means; with new hardware and software readily available to the general public, it’s common to see images in every genre that attempt to utilize HDR processing.  Thus, it comes as no surprise that real estate photographers have taken hold of HDR – using it to create both stunning masterpieces and disastrous flops.

The perfect shooting conditions are rare, especially when it comes to real estate.  Fluffy clouds, blue skies, perfect light… these conditions come together sometimes, but not always.  So, it’s nice to have a few tricks up your sleeve that still allow you to create great photos even when your timing is off.  I stepped out the other day for instance, to shoot a photo of the Point2 building (above) only to find washed-out skies and all around ‘bad’ light.  The perfect exposure was not a possibility, and my polarizing filter did nothing to correct the hot sky. I had a tripod with me though, and shot a number of photos at varying exposures, later merging them with HDR techniques.

Here’s a few tips for shooting raw images for later HDR processing:

• Use a sturdy tripod, and a cable release or remote control so your framing remains consistent.
• Bracket your exposures by adjusting your shutter speed rather than your aperture so your depth of field does not change.
• Shoot at least three photos – one underexposed, one overexposed, and one metered correctly.  Spreading out each exposure by a couple of stops is best.
• Shooting at dusk or dawn works great, and you may want to turn on all of the house lights to create a warm, ‘homey’ feel to the final shot.  Keep an eye on varying light sources though, as interior light will appear yellow.  Alternatively, exterior light may appear blue when shooting interiors.
• Avoid shooting areas that have moving objects if possible.  It complicates the merging process.

Once you have three or more bracketed exposures, it’s just a matter of merging them into the ‘perfect’ shot using specialized computer software.  Here’s where things can get tricky, but once you find a system that works for you it becomes much quicker and easier.  When it comes to HDR, practice truly does makes perfect – so don’t expect to master it on your first try.

Keep in mind that the best HDR images tend to be those that appear vibrant, colorful, and clear, while retaining realistic and natural tones.  Unnatural HDR images are everywhere, and there are a number of people who love them as an type of photographic art.  For real estate purposes especially, it’s very important that your images retain their realistic and natural appeal.  After all, you’re using them to sell houses not to win art competitions.  Here’s an example of an unnatural-looking HDR image:

Just because you’re using software designed to create HDR images, doesn’t mean that it’s always correct.  Color and tone can become skewed in the processing stages – sometimes to a point where they can’t be saved.  Just learn to trust your eye.

There’s a growing mass of software solutions that allow you to merge photos for the purposes of HDR.  The most popular is Adobe Photoshop which allows for both automated and manual processes.  Other common solutions include Photomatix, EasyHDR and PTgui Pro.  PTgui Pro also provides photo-stitching solutions for panoramas, and 360-degree virtual tours.  Free solutions include:  Enfuse Gui (PC), xFuse (mac), and Hugin (both).

Countless tutorials are on the web for those looking to get started.  Here’s a few decent one’s I’ve come across:

Adobe Photoshop: Automated Process |  Manual Process
Photomatix : Tutorial on Abduzeedo
PTgui Pro: Tutorial from PTgui Site

Personally, I like to merge photos manually with Photoshop.  It takes more time, but it always looks more natural in the end.  I have tested both Photomatix and PTgui Pro though, and I find Photomatix best for automated HDR processing and manual tone mapping.  Almost all of the paid solutions offer free trials, so I suggest testing as many of them as possible before making your final decision.  In the mean time, have a peek at some real estate HDR samples on PFRE’s Flickr page.  Enjoy!