I recently stepped out and shot a house that met the description above.  The house is located in a beautiful, new area of town.  So new, in fact, that the landscaping is yet to be completed.  In other words: no trees, no lawn, no flowers. Yikes!  Barren, desolate yards are common sights though, especially for agents who deal with listings in newly developed areas.  In these types of locations, the house needs to stand out to attract attention, simply because there’s really nothing else.

Step 1 – Focusing on the House

When I see a dirt yard, my first intention is to try and shoot the listing photo in a manner that shows as little of the yard as possible.  So I got as close to the house as I could, and took a picture:

Listing Photo #1: Close-Up Front

Boom!  There it is, the classic garage shot, with the house tucked in behind.  There’s little focus on the yard, it’s true, but there’s really nothing to see here that a home buyer really wants to see.

Step 2 – Get More “Home” in the Picture

Seemingly dissatisfied by the results of my first attempt, I decided to give it another shot.  In a moment of genius, I found that stepping away from the house helped to decrease the visual dominance of the garage. Snap:

Listing Photo #2: Front from a Distance

So I’m standing on the neighbor’s driveway and elated that I can see the front door. And there’s windows too!  Definitely some progress…

Step 3 – Use Perspective to My Advantage

Now that I know I’m getting somewhere, I’m energized to go all out.  It’s time to get that aerial angle that I have relied on for years.  Getting the aerial angle shot does require some ingenuity, but it can be done in almost any environment.  OK, so here it is:

Listing Photo #3: The Aerial Angle

I’m loving the look and feel of the house in this shot, but there’s a problem: the house is literally swimming in a sea of houses that all look too similar.  To make matters worse, there’s no trees bursting out of the background, no shrubs, no parks, no flowers, no fences – not even a blade of grass.  It looks like a construction zone, because IT IS a construction zone.

Step 4 – Utilize Perspective, but Focus on the House

Last try.  It’s time to move in for the kill.  I know I like the angle, but the lack of green space bothers me.  So, it’s time for the low angle – the classic “go to” shot when the neighborhood looks like Mars.

Listing Photo #4: The Low Angle

That’s it!  The yard shows, but the focus is on the house – not the houses in the neighborhood, not the house next door, but THE house.  There’s a good balance between living space and parking space, and best of all, the potential buyer knows exactly what he/she is in for.

If the neighborhood would have been more developed, I’d likely have stuck with the aerial angle as my primary shot to market this listing.  Every house requires it’s own analysis in order to get the best shot possible based on it’s structure and surrounding environment.

My advice: take your time, explore possibilities, and have fun!

Photographers who have taken the time to fully understand their gear are always investigating new ways of pushing the boundaries of what’s possible.  Photographic technology is growing exponentially, but the best in the business know that new technology means nothing without the core knowledge of light, timing, and framing.  In the examples above, photographer, Paul Freeman captures not just a time and a place, but an atmosphere and mood.  In the world of real estate, he introduces onlookers to envelop themselves in the photographs which evoke a comforting emotional state.  Here, a strong understanding of visual aesthetics, natural and artificial light, cropping/framing, and how to make use of the environment all combine to produce extremely compelling photos.

Moving beyond these skills, new technological advancements allow photographers to grow in a number of different directions.  In previous posts, I wrote about pole aerial photography (PAP), and radio-controlled aerial photography as a means of capturing images that go beyond the capabilities of a traditional, camera-in-hand setup.  In addition to those methods, balloon-aerial photography is also gaining popularity as an affordable alternative to hiring a personal aircraft to fly over large acreages and commercial lots.

The samples above were taken by Jay Groccia, an innovative photographer who offers both pole aerial (mast) and balloon aerial photos, as well as panoramic, VR tours.  He uses equipment produced by the appropriately named, Aerial Products Corporation – a company who makes balloons, blimps, and masts for aerial imaging purposes.  The setup for balloon/blimp aerial is pretty advanced stuff involving a motorized camera dock, remote camera control, and a specialized balloon – and these are no birthday party balloons.

The balloons are designed specifically for imaging specialists, and are engineered to accommodate for wind and weight to increase stability.  Their products can elevate cameras up to 1000 feet in the air.

Another great example of high quality photography being merged with new technology is the Australian company, Pixelcase.  They provide some of the sharpest looking 360-degree, virtual tours I have ever seen.  On top of that, they’ve also effectively merged pole aerial photography with equirectangular-based, VR tours.  If you’re not sure what I’m talking about check out this sample – the initial shot introduces viewers to the surrounding neighborhood, while the collapsible floorplan allows users to navigate inside the house.  The images themselves are clean, bright, and sharp.

Other samples from their portfolio, like this one from JHY Realty, also incorporate slick-looking .pdf links that provide additional listing information.  I like.  Lastly, the VR tour of New York city taken from a helicopter has to be my favorite.

The amount of time, science, engineering, and development that goes into concepts like these is astounding.  None of these technologies are “overnighters” – many take years to fully develop.  Furthermore, once built, the products are relatively useless unless you have someone on board who has a wealth of photographic knowledge, and the ability to produce high-quality, raw visuals.  Although these instruments are used for an array of purposes, real estate continues to be one of the driving factors that fuels production.  Where can we possibly go next?

There are only a handful of reasons why anybody these days would erect a 30′ pole into the sky. It could be that they suffer from nephophobia and they’re merely protecting themselves from perceived danger, or more realistically, they might just be partaking in a process called pole aerial photography or PAP. PAP is the process of using a long, telescopic pole to elevate your camera for the purpose of shooting down on your subject. Listing photos benefit from this angle as it makes for a better view of the yard, surrounding area, and home structure. They also tend to be eye catching as it is a view most of us are not used to seeing on a regular basis. For real estate agents, pole aerial photographs can make your listings stand out in busy, monotonous marketplaces, generating more interest from prospective buyers. As the number of agents who offer this type of service is relatively small, PAP is also a great way to further stand out from the competition.

There are a number of solutions available for those looking to offer PAP as part of their real estate marketing efforts, but nothing that has really monopolized the industry as of yet. In addition, many of the solutions out there are exorbitantly expensive and intricately complicated. However, if money is of no concern to you, than by all means have a browse of some of the current providers of this technology:

HiVue – Aerial Photography Telescopic Mast Base Kit - £3995.00 ($5917.43 US)

Photo Towers – Telescoping Masts and Tall Tripods – Starting at £1580.00 ($2340.31 US)

Survey Support – HiView25 Remote Inspection System - £1795.00 ($2657.90 US)

If you’re more of a do-it-yourselfer and/or budget-conscious, there are a few ways that you can assemble your own pole aerial photographic system that’s much easier on the pocketbook. I’ve devised a couple of options here as guides, but with a little bit of research and some old-fashioned ingenuity you will likely be able to improve upon my concepts by a fair degree.

OPTION A: EASY ($420 + Camera)

The “easy” system is for those who tend to avoid high-tech gizmos whenever possible, who like to do a little manual labor, and who don’t mind learning by trial and error.

Required hardware:

1) Camera with intervalometer or time-lapse function

2) Telescopic Pole – $390.00 (approx. 30’ length)

3) Flash bracket – $22.95

4) Long thumbscrew (or wing nut), washers, and soft rubber washers

Process:

Drill a hole through the flash bracket handle and through the top end of the telescopic pole. Attach the bracket to the pole using a long thumbscrew, or wing nut so that it can be loosened to adjust the tilted angle. Consider using a couple of washers and a rubber buffer to ensure the bracket attaches more firmly to the pole. Thread the camera onto the flash bracket securely.

Set your camera to the widest angle (i.e. 18mm is roughly 70-80 ° wide), and adjust the tilt accordingly (based on lens type, height of the pole, distance from the object, and size of the object). A little trial and error may be in order for those who wish to avoid the math. Activate the interval shooting mode – the camera will keep taking pictures in succession so feel free to modify your positioning every couple of shots. Elevate the pole to the desired height, and make regular adjustments so you get your framing just right.

Further Tips:

• The heavier the camera, the more the pole will sway. Wind will also have an effect on the results.
• You may feel more at ease with a camera that does not cost a lot of money, just in case the pole falls over.
• Only raise the pole to the height you feel comfortable supporting.
• A painter’s pole will also work, but may be difficult to find over 16’ in length.
• You can try and use your camera’s proprietary, wireless remote to activate the shutter if one exists, but most wireless remotes are limited to 16’ so it may not work.

OPTION B: COMPLICATED ($1105.87 + Camera/Lens)

The “complicated” system is for the more advanced photographer who loves gadgets and gizmos. All of my equipment recommends can serve dual purposes, so consider these things as a flexible part of your gear collection. For instance, the motorized tripod head can also be used for video productions; the Pocket Wizards can also be used for off-camera lighting, etc. The package is more expensive, but it gives you way more control.

Required hardware:

1) SLR Camera with Live Preview

2) Wide Angle Lens (18mm or wider)

3) Pocket Wizard Set – $184.94

4) Manfrotto Giant Camera Stand – $650.00

5) Portable Monitor – $165.00

6) Motorized Tripod Head (Wireless) - $79.95

7) RCA Video Extension Cable (50’) – $21.99 with Coupler – $3.99

Process:

The Manfrotto Giant Tripod can be elevated to 24’ and is secured by three reinforced base legs. Use Pocket Wizards to set of your camera’s shutter via remote; Pocket Wizards use radio transmissions that range up to 1600’ so you won’t need to worry about them not working. The motorized tripod is also wireless but with a range of only 30’ – it should still work fine with the tripod suggested as the range surpasses the 24’ height. A length of RCA video cable will connect you to your camera, and with “live preview” you will be able to keep a close eye on your framing with the portable monitor.

Simply attach the camera to the motorized tripod head, and the tripod head to the tripod. Attach your Pocket Wizard receiver to the camera’s hotshoe, and connect it. Plug in the RCA cable to the video output, while attaching the other end to the monitor’s input. Elevate your camera manually, and use the tripod head remote to adjust your framing. When you have it framed just right, use the Pocket Wizard transmitter to set off the shutter.

Further Tips:

• If you already own a portable DVD player, you can use it instead of the monitor.
• You cannot control an SLR camera’s zoom from a distance so you will need to adjust it first (Wider is usually better).
• Set up on sturdy ground and avoid bad weather.

So if you’re the type that likes a challenge and loves photography, give PAP a try.  Lee Jinks over at Activerain has been tinkering with this technology for a while; you can have a look at some of his innovations here. And again, take my concepts as mere suggestions and feel free to modify in accordance with your needs. I should also mention that Point2 takes no financial or legal responsibility for equipment failures, damages, and/or injuries caused while using the recommended equipment; in other words, “PAP” at your own risk. Take care and have fun!